Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this time-honored city is no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were created. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – hidden delights that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
